First, make the labels. For this, you'll need a personal computer and printer (a friend can help out if you don't have a PC). Type out the labels, using either the manufacturer's designations or your own specifications. Chose a 6- to 8-point font with a clean, legible typeface (Helvetica is excellent). These type sizes are large enough to be legible, yet easily wrap around the line without overlap. Although the labels may seem small, remember they have to roll lengthwise around a fly line--typically finished labels are only 1/2- to 1-inch long. Don't feel limited to line specifications alone. You can also personalize your lines with your name, date of purchase, or even something clever like "stolen from, . . ." If you do not have access to a computer and printer, you can often trim the adhesive label provided by the manufacturer to a size suitable for labeling your line.

When choosing paper, white standard bond (20lb.) is hard to beat. It blends well into light-colored lines, yet provides contrast on darker lines. Semi-transparent (airmail) papers, or transparent plastic films, can give a cleaner appearance on light lines and may be less visible to spooky spring-creek trout or bonefish, but the print can be unreadable against darker backgrounds. Beware, on glossy or nonabsorbent papers, some inks may run when the coating is applied. If you decide to label the tip of the fly line, you might also choose a brightly colored paper such red or chartreuse to create an "indicator tip" for nymphing.

A word of warning! If you fish where toothy critters might be attracted to a bright line tip, you should consider subtler shades of paper to prevent your label from being mistaken for a tasty morsel.

Next you'll need thread, a bobbin suitable for whip finishing, a bodkin (a match or toothpick will do in a pinch), and scissors. You might opt for a thread color to match your line or paper selection. Heavy duty threads work best--you want to be able to cinch the knots tightly (Danville's Flymaster Plus, Nymo, Kevlar threads, or monofilament work well).

For the purpose of this example, you will need a premade braided line loop of 20- to 50-pound material (either the one included by the line manufacturer or one you have made yourself). You will also require a flexible, transparent coating material such as Pliobond, Silicone Seal, Goop or Dave's Fleximent. Icon Product's Softex works great because it dries quickly, stays clear, and remains as supple as the fly line. Do not use CA glue (Cyanoacrylate) on the loop system--when dry it doesn't flex and forms glasslike cutting edges that may cause line failure.