In a simpler time, going fishing meant grabbing your fly rod and reel, a floating double taper, and heading for your favorite stream or lake. As your skills increased and your horizons expanded, you added a sinking line and a second rod, more lines, another reel, extra spools and maybe a shooting-head system. You targeted new species and traveled to exotic destinations--adding bonefish tapers, sinking tips, Spey lines, and triangle tapers. Through the years lines accumulated: The intermediate line you used in Henry's Lake last summer went in the drawer with the sinking tip you bought for steelhead, next to the--what was that line hanging like a slinky from a spool sporting a gummy rectangle where the I.D. sticker should be?

In time, every angler accumulates a selection of lines in a range of colors, sink rates, lengths, and tapers. Once the stickers have worn off the spools, how do you tell one from the other? Five weights, six weights, light green, dark green, beige (or is it just dirty white?)--a rat's nest of mystery lines with no clue as to which one is your six-weight floater. The efforts of manufacturers to color code lines by sink rate, or by providing adhesive stickers, have been supplemented by anglers with a variety of line identification methods. Techniques using permanent felt-tip markers, or elaborate color-coded thread wraps, have endured with varying degrees of utility and appeal. Frequently, these markings wear away with time and use, or the ink bleeds across the line and backing, adding unwanted (and unsightly) discoloration. Isn't there a better way to mark your lines?

Line labels.

Fly Line Labels
My friend John Ryzanych showed me a neat trick that I feel represents a vast improvement over previous techniques. In a spare evening with only a personal computer, printer, and a few basic materials, you can easily and permanently label your lines. The result is an easy to read paper I.D. tag that is laminated directly to the line. We think you'll find this a simple, practical method for identifying and personalizing fly lines in a good looking, professional manner.

Initially you must decide where to label the line--front, back, or both. If you intend to leave the line on the reel or spare spool, it makes sense to label the line at the tip where the fly line and leader are joined. For those of us who cannot afford a spare spool for each line (and store our lines in coils or on their original factory spools) it makes sense to apply a label at the reel end of the line. Similarly, you might chose to identify shooting heads at the butt (rear) end for easy recognition. Or, for that matter splurge and label both ends.

Currently, many manufacturers provide some type of "loop to loop" system with new lines. These are either pre-attached or supplied loose in the box with the line identification sticker. If your line needs a loop, you can easily make one of your own. Incorporating a braided loop with the labeling process is the best method we've found, since the braid provides a great foundation (scrim) for attachment of the label.

Once you choose to use a braided loop (at either end of the line), you can combine the loop and labeling process into one step. However, don't feel limited to this technique--you can also apply a label to the traditional whip-finished loop, at the nail knot, or directly on the fly line.