1. First, the leader or monofilament (both referred to now as mono) needs to be shaved to a point to pass through the eye of a size 8 or 9 needle.

1a. With a new, extra-sharp razor blade, stick the mono at a 90-degree angle with the blade, 2 inches from tip.

1b. Lower the razor blade to a 10-degree angle and slowly shave toward the mono tip. Rotate mono and slowly shave it once or twice more until the tip fits through the needle eye.

2. Hold the fly line or backing end short so it will be stiff. Using a pin vice with a dulled size 8 or 9 needle, with point out, push the needle about ½ inch into the fly line with a pushing, twisting force. Now, push the point through side of the line.

3a. Remove the pin vise from the needle, leaving the needle in the line. Push the needle up through the line so the eye is showing at least ½ inch. Attach the pin vise to needle point.

3b. Thread 1 inch of the mono tip through the needle eye. Crimp it a bit so it will not fall out.

3c. Pull the needle eye back and out through the side of line, which in turn threads the mono through the fly line.

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4a. With 100-grit sandpaper, roughen ½ inch of the mono an inch in front of the line tip.

4b. Wet this roughened area with a small amount of Zap-A-Gap.

4c. With your thumb and index finger, hold the fly-line tip right behind where the mono exits the side of the fly line. With your other hand, pull on the mono butt that is sticking out the side of the fly-line with a smooth, fairly quick motion to pull the entire roughened section inside the fly line. As soon as the leader slides into the fly line, the cement bonds completely. NOTE: We advise students to try this step several times without cement to get the feel down before actually adding the permanent cement. If you pull too fast the entire roughened area will pass through the fly line. Pull too slowly and only the front edge of the rough area will end up inside the fly line.

5a. With nippers, closely trim away the mono at the exit hole down flush with the fly line, without clipping the fly line. Place a small amount of Zap-A-Gap over the exit hole.

5b. Pull hard on the line and mono at the same instant. This causes the end of mono to be pulled inside the line and gives you a smooth strong finish. Add a bit of Zap-A Gap over the mono/fly-line junction, giving it an even smoother outside finish. Let the Zap-A-Gap that is on the outside of the line cure for about ten minutes or spray it with Zap-Kicker for instant hardening.