Uncoil a knotless, tapered leader and straighten the butt section. If the leader butt does not have a loop, tie a simple overhand knot in it 1 inch from butt end. This provides a convenient handle for one of the cementing steps. Cut the fly-line tip with nippers so it is square and smooth.

1. Insert the needle point into the pin vise so that about 1/2 inch of the eyed end of the needle sticks out. Hold the fly-line tip tightly between your thumb and index finger so only about 1/16 inch sticks out. This will keep the line stiff so the needle can be easily inserted.

2. Set the eye of the needle against the tip of the fly line, and with a gentle back and forth drilling motion of the pin-vise, push the needle inside the fly-line core about 3/8 inch and out the line. Pass the tip of the leader through the needle eye. Stop when there is an inch of leader through the eye. If the leader tip is too large, shave it with a sharp razor blade so that it passes through the needle eye.

3. While holding the fly-line tip in your fingers, pull the pin vise back to remove the needle from inside the fly line. This threads the leader through the fly line. Keep pulling to remove the leader tip from the needle eye. Pull the leader forward through the fly-line tip until only about 2 inches of the butt section sticks out the side of the line tip.

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4. (a) With a 3/8-inch-wide strip of 100-grit sandpaper, roughen a small section of the leader 1 inch in front of the fly-line tip. (Be sure not to roughen the leader section sticking out the side of the fly line.) Important: Make sure this sanded area looks opaque and feels rough. (b) Apply a small amount of Zap-A-Gap to the sanded area. (c) With your thumb and index finger, hold the fly-line tip right behind where the leader exits the side of the fly line. With your other hand, pull on the leader butt that is sticking out the side of the fly line with a smooth, fairly quick motion to pull the entire roughened section inside the fly line. As soon as the leader slides into the fly line, the cement sets. Note: Practice this step several times without cement. If you pull too fast, the entire roughened area passes through the fly line. Pull too slowly and only the front edge of the rough area ends up inside the fly line.

5. (a) Cut all the leader sticking out of the side of the fly line without cutting the fly line itself. (b) Place a small amount of Zap-A-Gap over this exit hole. This seals the hole and strengthens the coating to prevent hinging. (c) Grab the line and leader about 6 inches from the connection and make a quick, strong pull at the same time on both. This stretches the fly line and tucks the cut leader end inside the fly line. If you still have a bend in the fly line at the connection, fold it in the opposite direction before the cement sets. Wait about ten minutes for the glue outside of the connection to harden and then it's ready to use.

Note: To have an ultra-smooth junction between the line tip and leader butt, place a bit of Zap-A-Gap on the junction and allow it to set for five to ten minutes or spray it with Zip Kicker for an instantaneous set.