STEP #1: Use a micrometer or calipers to determine the length of the front taper (the front part of the line where the diameter increases).

STEP #2:Carefully cut the line so the ends are square.

STEP #3:Insert the fly line into the kevlar sleeve.

STEP #4:Use a thread and bobbin to whip-finish the loop sleeve tightly to the line. Use water-proof Super Glue to permanently attach the loop.

STEP #5:Use the loops to attach heads that will match fishing conditions.

To create your own sinking-tip system for winter steelhead, start with a floating, long double-tapered line or a long-bellied weight-forward Spey or steelhead purpose line. [If the belly length doesn't suit your normal casting/fishing distances--and it often doesn't for winter steelheading on big rivers, especially when Spey fishing--use the author's recommendations and instructions for extending the belly. THE EDITORS.]

Use a micrometer or calipers to determine the length of the front taper (the front part of the line where the diameter increases) and cut it off. Don't discard the front taper, as you can put a loop in it where you made the cut and re-attach it to your main line to have a full floater for nymphing or summer steelhead applications.

Work a Kevlar loop onto the end of the line and, using a thread and bobbin, whip-finish the loop to the line using monocord thread. Some people whip the entire Kevlar sleeve to the line but I prefer to whip the sleeve at two points--where the actual loop meets the sleeve and where the sleeve ends. By whipping the sleeve at these two points you will create a flexible connection that turns the line over properly. Complete the loop by adding a few drops of waterproof superglue to the thread wraps.

Most Kevlar loops come with heat-shrink sleeves you can use to slide over the thread for extra protection. They don't hurt, but with the monocord and superglue I don't find it necessary.

A variation of this method, and one that is as old as winter steelhead fly fishing itself, uses the core of the line to create your loops. First, you strip the fly line coating off the core. (Dip the end of the line in nail polish remover so that the coating separates from the core, then strip the coating off with your thumb nail.) Double the core over on itself to create the loop, then whip-finish and glue the loop. (I do use sleeve over the whip-finished thread in this case.)

Some anglers believe that this method creates an inferior loop that is prone to failure, but I haven't had this problem. If you decide to go with this method, be sure to stiffen your loops with a drop or two of super glue. And no matter which method you use, be sure to check your loops occasionally for wear.

Attaching the Sinking-Tips
Now that your main line is ready, you need to create your sinking-tip system using commercially available shooting heads you will find at most fly shops. These 30-foot heads, manufactured by Cortland, 3M Scientific Anglers, and others, come in sink rates I-VI.

First, cut the head to the desired length(s). I usually cut a 30-foot head into 12- and 18-foot sections and remove any tapers.

The tapered end of the head is less dense, and will sink more slowly than the rest, putting a U-shaped bend in the line. This will cause the fly to ride higher in the water column and farther away from the steelhead. Some people believe the taper is a good thing because the fly rides out of the way of snags, but still deep enough to provoke a strike. I know anglers who catch fish with and without tapered heads, so what it comes down to is which design gives you the most confidence. I cut the tapers off all my shooting heads. [Removing the taper from the end of a fly line will result in an excess of undissipated energy at the end of the cast, and cause the line to "kick" at the end of the cast--making it difficult to straighten the leader accurately. In most winter steelheading situations, this isn't a problem, as the fish are not at your casting target anyway, and the leader will straighten on the swing. To reduce this "kick," modify your cast to reduce the amount left-over energy--a larger, slower loop is usually the answer. Airflo makes 45-foot heads (up to sink rate VII) with Density Compensated tapers. These lines sink tip-first, keeping your fly right on the bottom. Because they are tapered, they cast much more easily. Do not cut the tapers off density compensated shooting heads. THE EDITORS.]

Using the same method as you did for the loop on the the main line, install loops on both ends of your sinking-tips--this will allow you to connect tips together if you find conditions where you need the full length of the original shooting head.

Loop the sinking-tips to your main line and add short 2-to-5 foot leaders to the sinking-tips with the standard loop-to-loop connection and you have a variable sinking-tip system that will allow you to use a variety of methods to effectively fish a variety of water depths and speeds.

Shooting Head Sink Attributes Standard shooting heads are tapered, and because the tip is less dense, the end of the line will sink more slowly that the rest of the line. To get your fly right on the bottom, cut tapers from standard shooting heads, or use density compensated shooting heads.

Matching the Line to Fishing Conditions
Once you have constructed your basic winter line system, it's easy to augment it with other custom tips. You'll want to use longer, faster sinking lines for deep, fast water, and shorter, slower sinking lines for relatively shallow and slower moving water. The following should help you get started:

Deep, Fast Water: You'll want a long, high density sink tip here. Use a type V or type VI shooting head and make your tips at least 18 feet long. If you find your offering still isn't deep enough, try making your initial cast quartering upstream, followed by a few mends to square the tip and allow the fly to get deep. (Technique is often more important than tackle when trying to get your fly deep in this type of water.)

Medium Depth, Medium Speed: For water 4-6 feet deep with a moderate flow, create 13- to 15-foot tips cut from type IV or V shooting heads. I do most of my winter fishing with these tips.

Slow, Shallow Water: The "lazy water" under five feet in depth is often preferred by steelhead, particularly early and late in the day, and calls for 10- to 13-foot tips cut from type III or IV shooting heads.