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The Snake River System
The main stem of the Snake River begins in the southern region of Yellowstone Park and flows through Grand Teton National Park. It cascades into Palisades Reservoir below the whitewater canyon near Alpine, Wyoming. Below Palisades Dam it is known as the South Fork of the Snake. I think the name changes because of the Henry's Fork, which in the old days was known as the North Fork of the Snake.
Because it drains such a vast area, the South Fork is normally a large river. During the spring runoff, the flows have reached more than 30,000 cubic feet per second (cfs). Normal flows during the summer irrigation season range between 8,000 and 16,000 cfs. In the fall, the flows typically drop to a fraction of that, often not more than 2,000 cfs.
The South Fork is a large river with multiple access points and a 12-mile roadless area known as "The Canyon."
While most of the South Fork flows through public land, there is also a lot of private land adjacent to the river. I recommend you check with one of the fly shops located in Swan Valley, Idaho Falls, or Jackson for information on where to access the river. Most of the shops sell a superb map of the South Fork by American Adventure Associates that has all of the information you need, including access points, roads, campsites, and boating information. The fly shops can arrange a shuttle if you have your own boat. You can also get information from the forest ranger's office in Swan Valley.
The Upper River
The upper stretch of the South Fork flows from Palisades Dam downstream to the Conant Valley boat access. This section is the most popular because there is excellent access to the river for both float- and wade-fishing. Some of the boating access points are primitive, so you'll need a four-wheel drive. Otherwise you can use one of several BLM accesses that require a daily use fee.
Through the upper half of this stretch, there are lots of undercut banks with plenty of structure to hold big fish. Cast as close to the holding pockets as possible with bright streamers like the Kiwi Muddler or Silver Zonker to lure the trout out. Patterns perfected by the Jackson Hole crowd, such as the Super-X, Yuk Bug, and J. J. Special, also do well.
Farther down, above Fall Creek, the river braids out into dozens of side channels. This is some of the best dry-fly water in the river. Even on the busiest days you can almost always find a channel or riffle tucked away where you can spot a pod of rising trout. Many anglers make the fatal mistake of wading through the very shallow water in search of rising trout. South Fork trout will hold in water barely deep enough to cover their backs and slyly poke their noses out to inhale a fly. Sometimes you have to hear them rise before you can spot them.
The Canyon
The canyon stretch encompasses about 20 miles of some of the finest wild-trout water in the West. There are no roads from Conant Valley to Burns Creek, a stretch of about 12 miles. The first public boat access is 14 miles below Conant at Cottonwood. Because Cottonwood is on the opposite side of the river, you have a long drive back down the river on a gravel road to Heise before you can get back to the main highway. Unless you plan to spend the night, floating the canyon stretch makes for a very long day of fishing.
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BLM maintains a number of public camping areas in the canyon. An overnight trip in the canyon offers more fishing time but even more important, a special connection with a majestic river and its spectacular surroundings. The timbered canyon and rock walls offer perfect habitat for mule deer and elk and provide nesting habitat for bald eagles. The cottonwood bottoms are teeming with whitetail deer and moose. The cottonwoods also provide nesting habitat for blue heron, osprey, and dozens of other birds. One of the biggest mistakes many anglers make is to spend so much time watching their flies on the water that they miss out on the splendid scenery the canyon has to offer.
The campsites are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Most of the outfitters offer overnight trips in the canyon as a package in addition to their day trips. Two of the outfitting businesses, Teton Valley Lodge and South Fork Outfitters, also have private access points in the canyon.
The Middle Section
Byington is the first boat access below Conant on the south side of the river, a distance of about 20 miles. There are several good boat access points from Byington south to the U.S. Highway 20 bridge near Lorenzo. You can really get lost in this stretch of water due to the many braids and side channels. Those inexperienced with the South Fork are well advised to get up-to-date information before floating this stretch. The channels can change from year to year; you risk floating into a side channel only to find it closed off by a downed cottonwood.
The South Fork doesn't seem to get as much float-
fishing pressure below Byington. Do-it-yourselfers tend to avoid it because it is the most technical section. It is also a longer drive for many of the fishing guides in the area.
This stretch is my personal favorite. I fished more in this section during my college days, it's a little closer to my home in St. Anthony, and it gets great hatches of mayflies, caddis, and stoneflies throughout the season, providing some outstanding dry-fly fishing. There are also plenty of grassy undercut banks that provide some of the best late-summer hopper fishing I've ever experienced. The higher brown populations below Byington combined with the year-round season in this stretch provides some exceptional late-fall, winter, and early-spring fly fishing.
The Lower River
The section I'm least familiar with is from the Lorenzo Bridge on U.S. Highway 20 downstream to the confluence with the Henry's Fork near Menan. I know several guides, however, who would rather fish here than anywhere else. If you want to beat the crowds, this is the place to go. There are a number of large spring creeks in the lower South Fork valley that provide plenty of cool water during the heat of the summer. These springs also provide added nutrients to the river, as well as helping to keep the water temperature constant during the cold winter months.
Mike Lawson is former owner of the Henry's Fork Angler. His latest book is Spring Creeks, published by Stackpole Books. He lives in St. Anthony, Idaho.
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