Northeast Saltwater Gear

Rods for New England stripers and blues should be at least 9-feet long and have a fast action. They should have fighting butts and noncorrosive components. For fishing the flats from a boat or when using small flies in sheltered water, a 9-foot 8- or 9-weight rod is fine. Wading and working bigger waters from shore, fishing at the mouth of an ocean inlet, working a heavy rip, or using big flies requires a larger rod. A 10- or 11-weight overloaded by one line size can make fishing under heavy conditions easier. Many inshore fishermen favor slightly longer rods (9 1/2 or 10 feet); as the tide drops and leaves a steep bank, the added length helps them make a steeple cast. A longer rod also helps them keep their line off the water while they are wading.

Six- or 7-weight outfits and intermediate lines are right for early seasonsmall fish. Lighter rods also work well for the worm hatch because they present the flies much more delicately, and are more sensitive in detecting the take of a dead-drifted fly than the stouter rods. A 7- or 8-weight graphite rod is ideal. Such rods, combined with weight-forward floating lines and a 9-foot leader tapered down to a 10-pound tippet, are just the right combination for the hatch.

After use, rinse your rod with fresh water, especially around the reel seat and rod guides. Wipe the rod with a dry cloth. Do not put a wet rod into a rod storage sock. Unremoved salt water can ruin the rod's finish as well as damage the rod's components.

Reels must have a sound drag, take a fall without crushing, and resist corrosion from constant saltwater baths. Use one that holds at least 150 yards of backing--more if you fish from shore. To increase the capacity of a reel, either cut back the reel end of the fly line or use one of the new thinner polyethylene backings.

Most of the modern mid-priced fly reels work well for northeast saltwater fishing; you don't need a $500 model. Be sure the reel is counterbalanced and the drag is smooth, noncorrosive, and easy to adjust. Both disc- and cork-drag systems work well. For inexperienced anglers or anglers who do fine work with their fingers, an antireverse reel is a good choice. A direct-drive reel can crack your knuckles when a fish runs line out. It takes more experience to avoid the reel handle, but most anglers can learn to use a direct-drive reel. Make sure you remove the reel spool from the reel and rinse both the spool and reel frame thoroughly in clean water after each use.

Lines should be designed for saltwater use so they can withstand the harshness of the salt water, sun, and heat. The soft coatings on freshwater lines can get tacky and weaken. Three line types are useful: Floating lines are used 10 to 15 percent of the time for fish crashing the surface; sinking-tip lines are great for daytime flats feeders or for shallow depths (three to five feet); and most saltwater fly fishermen rely heavily on intermediate lines with sink rates of 1 1/2 to 2 inches per second for 50 percent of their fishing. Intermediate lines provide a consistent sink and get three to four feet below the surface.

An extra-fast-sinking line with a sink rate of from four to six inches per second is vital for getting down into sharp drop-offs and deeper water. Lines such as the Orvis Depth Charge (400 grain), Teeny sinking lines (350 or 400 grain), and the Cortland Quick Descent lines work well. When sight fishing the flats, a floating line or the Orvis 10-foot, clear, sinking-tip line works well.

An interchangeable shooting-taper system is an affordable and popular way to rig your outfit. You can buy one spool of running line and simply change line types quickly as your situation requires.

Stiff monofilament should be used for simple saltwater leaders. Mason or Maxima are stiff enough to turn over large wind-resistant saltwater flies. A simple saltwater leader is three pieces: 4 feet 0f .035 inch Mason; 2 feet of .020 inch Mason; and 2 feet of 15-pound Mason tippet. Some anglers simply use from 4 to 9 feet of 15- or 16-pound Mason as a 1-piece leader. Leaders for sinking heads and lines should be no longer than 4 feet so the fly sinks evenly with the line end.

Stripping baskets are essential. They gather excess line and keep it from drifting in the currents or tangling around rock jetties, and they prohibit intermediate or fast sinking lines from sinking around your legs. On a boat, the stripping basket keeps the line from tangling around cleats.

A few other items worth getting: A PVC anorak worn over a pair or waders can keep rogue waves from spilling into your waders; pliers or forceps are important for removing hooks from a bluefish's mouth (remember, bluefish have razor-sharp teeth and eyesight as good on land as in the water); polarized glasses during the day and clear shooting glasses at night offer protection from windblown casts; insect repellent keeps the sand fleas at bay; and a hook hone helps keep your hooks sharp.

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