caught my first bonefish in 1986 at Christmas Island , fishing with a wonderful guide named Taunga Smith, a.k.a. 'Tuna'. It was my first day on a bonefish flat and I was green as grass. We were wading slowly in shallow water. I had the fly in one hand, with some line out of the rod tip, dragging beside us in the water, as instructed by Taunga. Suddenly he stopped and whispered, "bonefish coming, 50 feet," and he pointed.

"Cast."

"Cast," he urged.

I did as instructed, but I did not see any evidence of a living thing in the direction he pointed, but I cast the fly in the direction he was pointing and then moved the fly in short strips when commanded.

I felt resistance, and suddenly the line was snatched from my fingers by an unseen force. I stood there with mouth agape as the reel came to life and began spinning impossibly.

I have returned to Christmas Island eight times over the past two decades. On the most recent trip, four of us stayed for two weeks, something we had never done before. The extra time allowed for a more casual, relaxed pace, affording us the opportunity to avoid the frenetic dashing about often associated with the feeling that time is running out. Christmas Island has been, and remains, one of my favorite saltwater fishing venues. Over the years things have changed, but pleasantly so, for the most part. The accommodations are not five star, the meals do not rank as gourmet, the wine list is paltry, and the physical operation needs updating. The locals are easy to smile, generous, and accommodating. There is a charm to Christmas Island that is immensely appealing, and the fishing remains wonderful.

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Anglers fly to Christmas Island on a Air Pacific 737 from Honolulu on a Tuesday-to-Tuesday basis. Clearing Christmas Island customs and immigration is similar to clearing customs anywhere. Expect to stand in line until summoned, display your passport, fill out the required forms, and anxiously await the delivery of your luggage. Everybody has a job to do, so allow them to do their jobs and get on with it. After clearing customs, guests transfer to the Captain Cook Hotel.

For those who have already been to the Captain Cook Hotel, the newer bungalows are more spacious and made of sterner stuff—cement block construction—but they do not quite have the charm of the original accomodations. The newer bungalows do not allow the breeze to pass through like the older ones, but the new bungalows have hot running water.