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Feather-tip Wings
TED LEESON AND JIM SCHOLLMEYER
A pair of properly set feather-tip wings surely makes one of the most elegant upright wings in all of tying. The Adams is probably the best-known example, but a wide variety of patterns can be winged in this style. Many tiers now substitute feather tips on flies that traditionally called for the more fragile quill wings. The chief virtues of the style are a clean, precise profile, a natural-looking translucency, and great versatility. They can be used with a standard collar, a parachute, or a thorax hackle, or when tied carefully, used to dress no-hackle patterns. They are moderately easy to dress and are durable, despite their delicate appearance.
Their greatest limitation is the range of colors, since tiers are restricted primarily to natural and dyed hackle. Fortunately, shades of dun, the predominant color in mayfly wings, are readily available, and grizzly or variant feathers credibly imitate mottled wings.
We prefer very webby hen hackles for their greater breadth and translucency and better proportions; other tiers favor rooster hackle tips, and these make fine wings as well. Duck shoulder feathers can make excellent feather-tip wings, though these are not as readily available.
Occasionally, well-shaped and sufficiently symmetrical waterfowl, chicken, and gamebirds body feathers can make attractively marked feather-tip wings, though they must usually be cut or burned to shape first. In fact, hackle tips, though most often used without prior shaping, can also be cut or burned, which makes more of a cape or saddle useable, since oversize feathers can be used for winging.
The chief consideration in any feather is the stem thickness. Overly thick stems, while easier to tie, produce enough wind resistance to twist a tippet unmercifully during casting. Our ideal feather is a relatively broad, quite webby, thin-stemmed feather, and luckily these are in abundant supply on hen capes and saddles. When cutting or burning a feather, form the wing from the very tip to ensure the thinnest possible stem.

PHOTO #16: Feather-tip wings can be prepared in a variety of ways. Shown here from left to right are natural hen hackle-tip wings (the barbs below the wing-mounting point are preened downward); a wing hand-cut from a hen hackle; a hen hackle clamped in a Renzetti wing burner; and the finished burned wing. Regardless of how the feather is prepared, the wings are tied in the same way. Dressing a feather tip wing is really not much different than tying an upright post.
PHOTO #17: To tie a feather-tip wing, stack the feathers front-to-front so that they flare away from one another. Don't strip off the excess barbs below the wing-mounting point; rather, just preen them toward the butt of the feather, as shown here. The bare feather stems produced by stripping tend to roll around the shank, making it difficult to position the wings properly. Mounting over the preened-back barbs gives some bulk beneath the thread wraps and prevents the feather stems from twisting. Some tiers cut the fibers below the wing-mounting point, leaving stubs that the thread can grasp.

PHOTO #18: To raise the wings to vertical, simply build a small thread bump ahead of them, as shown on the natural-tip wings at the left. If a greater angle between the wings is desired, make a crisscross wrap between the feathers to force them outward. On the right is a pair of wings fashioned from burned feathers.

PHOTO #19: One of our favorite fly styles uses burned wings and a parachute hackle, but many tiers have difficulty dressing this combination. Wrapping a thread foundation around the base of the wings for hackling often twists the fine feather stems and distorts the wing. You can remedy this problem by using the twisting to your advantage.
Wrap a thread foundation up the base of the wings, and then back down. The wings will be pulled off-center; in this top view, the wings have been cocked slightly clockwise from the thread pressure.
Mount the parachute hackle in such a way that you wrap in a direction opposite to that in which the thread base was formed. Here, the hackle will be wrapped counterclockwise. Wrapping pressure from winding the hackle will be used to straighten the wing. Don't try to align the wings with one turn of hackle; rather, twist them back into proper position over the course of several wraps.

PHOTO #20: Feather tips can make beautiful and effective no-hackle patterns for flat-water use; these can, however, be a little tricky to tie. Because of their symmetry and broad silhouette, burned or cut wings tend to work best.
Dress the tail first, then the body. When dubbing the abdomen, build a distinct "shoulder" at the front end; it will help position the wings properly. In this style, the barbs below the wing-mounting point must be stripped away. Lay a thread foundation ahead of the body, and mount the wings individually, using only one or two moderately tight thread wraps per feather.
When the wings are mounted, use your fingers to adjust their position. As shown at the left, the lower edge of the wing should be level with, or slightly below, the underside of the body. As shown at the right, the wings should flare outward, like pontoons, to support the fly. Once the wings are properly positioned, apply a tiny drop of gel-type super glue to the thread wraps on the stems. Wait a moment for the glue to dry, and then secure the feather stem, using additional wraps, without fear of disturbing the wing position.

PHOTO #21: Clip the excess feather stems, dub a thorax and head, and the fly is complete, as shown on the left. It is quite comparable in silhouette to the standard No-hackle Dun shown on the right, but considerably more durable and easier to tie.
Ted Leeson and Jim Schollmeyer are authors of The Fly Tier's Benchside Reference to Techniques and Dressing Styles (Frank Amato Publications). Leeson lives in Corvallis, Oregon; Schollmeyer lives in Salem, Oregon.

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