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Eyes for Flies

Intro | Thread | Dry-Fly Hackle | Foam | Wet-Fly Hackle Hackle | Plumage | Chenille | Dubbing | Hair | Quills/Biots | Yarn | Plastic | Wire | Dry-fly Wings | Wet-fly Wings | Flash | Beads | Eyes | Rubber | Adhesives | Fur and Fleece | Paint and Markers



Left to right: bead chain, painted bead chain, lead eyes, brass eyes, Real Eyes w/stick-ons, Real-hot eyes, Epoxy-over eyes, Deep-see Eyes w/molded eyes
On many saltwater baitfish, and in some freshwater situations, eyes are the trigger that cause predators to attack. Eyes on flies are nothing new, but the number of eye materials has grown.

Doll Eyes. We have the toy and craft business to thank for doll eyes. They come in two basic types: hollow and solid plastic. The hollow ones have movable pupils and because they are basically a hollow air chamber they can add some flotation to flies. They also make noise when rattled. The most common sizes for flies are 3mm to 10mm. Zap-a-Gap, contact cement, or Goop are generally used to glue them on.

Solid doll eyes usually have stems. They are easier to glue on if you cut off the stems. Molded and epoxy eyes are made in a full range of sizes and prismatic colors. They have an adhesive back, but I would recommend gluing them on for durability. Glass taxidermy eyes are sometimes available. They are very realistic and add weight. However, they are expensive and hard to find.

Adhesive Eyes. Adhesive eyes are one of my favorites. They are sold in sizes from 1/8" to 1" and in numerous colors. I use them for Double Bunnies. Pre-bend them to get better adhesion on flies with a round surface. This prevents the edges from rebounding back to the original flat shape.

Painted Eyes. Painted eyes are also an option. Use different size round objects to create an iris and pupil. You can make a very nice eyeball painter by cutting a 4" long section of wooden dowel. Size the dowel for the iris, and taper the other end with a pencil sharpener for the pupil.


Adhesive eyes help produce an array of effective fly patterns.

Metal Eyes. Metal eyes are great for appearances as well as their weight. Bead chain was the first. It works well for lightly weighted flies. Nickel and brass are the most common, but painted bead chain can be purchased.

Dumbbell eyes of lead, brass, and tin are used extensively. Lead is the heaviest followed by brass and tin. Some eyes are molded and others are machined. Machined eyes are more durable and easier to tie in. The eyes come in natural finishes and plated metal finishes.

Wapsi sells lead eyes with painted pupils, and Spirit River has Real Eyes which have recessed ends to put adhesive eyes in. They can be coated with epoxy to make them look like doll eyes. Spirit River sells a painted version of Real Eyes called Real Hot-Eyes.

Molded eyes can be put on the end of Dumbbell eyes. Spirit River also makes a large aluminum version of Real Eyes called Deep See Eyes. They come in 1/4, 3/8 and 7/16 diameters. They can be used to make big eyed saltwater flies that are not excessively heavy. They are sized to be fitted with molded eyes. The newest eyes are a combination of tungsten and rubber. They weigh as much as lead, are chip proof and are very easy to paint. They are sold by Angler's Choice and Rocky Mountain Dubbing.


An assortment of eyes.

A wide range of nymph and crustacean nymph eyes are made. Strung plastic craft beads make nice eyes for damsel and dragon fly nymphs. Cut the cord so that you separate two beads. The small black ones are best, but other colors will work too. They can be colored with permanent marker or painted. I use the large pearl beads for my squid eyes.

Melted monofilament eyes also work well on nymphs. You can make your own or ready made eyes are sold. These are formed by melting the end of the mono with a flame until it forms a molten ball. Heavy monofilaments in the 20- to 100-pound range are usually used. Most mono is clear. To tint it, color it with a permanent marker before burning.

Eyes can also be made by sliding loose glass beads onto mono and then super gluing them in place or burning the mono to hold them.


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