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Step-by-step instructions for Harrison Steeves' unique hopper imitation.
Steps 1-7 | Steps 8-14
8. Tie in two unseparated rubber legs, and trim them to the desired length.
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9. Separate the legs and tie them down on opposite sides of the hook shank, even with the front of the completed body.
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10. Cut a small clump of elk hair, even the tips in a hair stacker, and tie it in by the butts. The tips should extend past the bend of the hook. Trim the butts, and tie the elk hair down tightly.
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11. Tie in the turkey quill wing case, and trim it so that it is no longer than the tips of the elk hair wings. Trim the forward-projecting excess, and tie it down. Wrap the tying thread to the eye of the hook.
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12. Wax the tying thread, and apply the dubbing. Build up a good clump of dubbed thread behind the eye of the hook by wrapping the dubbed thread rearward. Leave about a 1/16-inch-wide bare thread wrap behind the dubbing. The dubbing forms a reinforced area so the head will not slide forward.
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13. Tie in the foam head disc behind the dubbed portion and over the bare thread wrap. The front third of the head disc should extend to the eye of the hook, and the rear two-thirds should extend well over the wing case, wings, and body of the fly. If desired, tie in a piece of fluorescent Antron yarn on top of the foam disc, and trim it to form a "quick sight" spot. Whip-finish, and remove the thread. Apply a small amount of Zap-A-Gap cement to the bare thread wraps under the head.
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14. Add black E-Z Shape Sparkle Body eyes, and allow them to dry for about twelve hours before fishing the fly. Eyes can also be added using a black permanent marker, in which case the fly can be fished immediately.
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