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William Mullins Photo Photo Courtesy Fishing Unlimited
Photo Courtesy Wind River Camp Greg Sylverson Photo

Trip-planning details you need to know before you go to the Last Frontier

BY MIKE MERCER

Intro | Wilderness Camps | River Lodges | Fly-in Lodges | Trip Timing

The time has come. From the age of twelve, you've dreamt of it. The Great Land. Alaska. You've read and re-read every magazine article ever written about it, pored over brochures filled with photos of incredible vistas, giant grizzlies and monster trout. You've thrilled to savage strikes from the comfort of your Barcolounger, staring gape-mouthed as the celebrity host hooks an unending parade of impossibly fresh, wildly cartwheeling salmon.

At outdoor shows you spend hours drooling over every lodges promotional video, imagining yourself standing waist-deep in that crystal clear tundra stream. Your nights are filled with visions of hook-jawed Arctic Char, ablaze with autumn colors, sail-finned grayling delicately sipping tiny dries, and thick, leopard -spotted rainbows slashing mice patterns off the surface. You, my friend, are a goner. There's no turning back now, no pretending you enjoy your local trout stream just as much "in it's own way." Your life will never be complete until you've experienced The Last Frontier.

Photo Courtesy Illiaska Lodge
Your lodge/river choice will make or break your trip to Alaska. Research you trip carefully to make sure the accomodations are suitable, and the species you most desire are available.

Mentally, you've made the commitment. The vacation time is there, for once the taxman was kind to you, and your spouse thinks you deserve it. Your obsession is starting to take shape and, like your first kiss, makes you almost giddy with equal parts of lust and trepidation. Will it be as good as you've fantasized, or will actually getting what you've wanted for so long prove a disappointment? The outcome, I assure you, is in your hands. Alaska can either be a trip of a lifetime, or a complete disaster, and a great deal of the outcome will depend on the research you do beforehand. There are questions you'll need to ask yourself, questions you'll need to ask your lodge or outfitter, and then you'll have to choose from an amazing array of options. As a travel specialist, it's my job to help people find the answers to all those questions, and choose the Alaska lodge that is best for them. Read on, and I'll attempt to do the same for you. Booking Early First, and foremost, choose the year you want to go. This may seem a bit obvious, but you should understand that the best lodges have incredibly high rates of re-booking clientele. Returning guests, given the standard first right of refusal for their particular week, often choose to go again every year at that same time. Consequently, at some operations, time slots are rarely made available to new anglers. Your best shot at acquiring high demand dates is to book your trip a year in advance. This gives you first shot at any openings that do arise, and the lodge owners an opportunity to try and fit you in with a little creative juggling. Using an Outfitter If you are a real do-it-yourself, not afraid of a daunting amount of research, arranging your own first Alaskan trip can be a rewarding challenge. If, like most people, you have too little time to accomplish too many jobs, I would suggest looking into the services of a qualified travel outfitter. A good outfitter knows the ropes. They know which questions to ask, and how to listen to the answers. Their experience and breadth of knowledge will save you untold hours of phone calls, E-mails and Internet surfing. Whether you want to catch large chrome-bright kings at tidewater, or spring-run steelhead, a good outfitter will be able to give you a short list of options.

Typically, I'd hook as many big rainbows in a 100-yard stretch as I would in a week back home. And it was all mine, whenever I wanted it.

Strong working relationships with their lodges allow them to quickly and thoroughly canvass a wide variety of destinations for potential available dates, and give invaluable insights into each operation. They can tell you what the rooms are like, what the guide to angler ratio is, and if beer is included in the rate. They understand they are dealing with your vacation time, possibly the trip of a lifetime, and take that responsibility very seriously.

A good outfitter will also be a serious angler, and able to make specific tackle recommendations. They know itineraries, motels and restaurants, en route. They can take the mystery (and uneasiness) out of how much to tip. They know details you never even thought to consider and, if they don't have an answer, they'll get it. Perhaps most importantly, they are able to help match you to a destination that will fulfill your individual expectations. And the best part? They're absolutely free!

Budget Constraints
If you are on a tight budget, it will to some extent decide the style of adventures you'll need to choose from. A few lodges offer less than full week packages, at correspondingly lower prices. Your round trip travel expenses are fixed, of course, so you'll need to decide if all the traveling is worth a two- to four-day stay. Some operations offer float trips, providing rafts, equipment, meals and guides for a weeklong drift down a wilderness river. Assuming you're rowing down a lightly used stream, this is an unparalleled way to observe undisturbed wildlife, become part of the backcountry, and lose yourself in its magnificence. Only experienced outdoorsmen or self-sufficient adventurers should consider this option, though, as damp clothes, an absence of bathroom facilities and a limited approach to style of fishing are all part of the game.

An often overlooked, but wonderful option are the discounts that some lodges offer on less popular weeks. It's not uncommon to see lowered rates for early to mid-June dates at operations that don't have king salmon fisheries. On the upside, this is normally the absolute best time for rainbows on dry flies and surface-fished smolt imitations. Similarly, a few destinations will reduce rates for the short window of time (usually in July) when the fewest species of "glamour" fish are available. If catching obscene numbers of bright, fresh, six- to ten-pound sockeye salmon appeals to you, however, this may be the week for you.


Mike Mercer is a travel specialist with The Fly Shop in Redding, California.


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